Cook Like a Chef With Jonathan Waxman

A native Californian and one-time professional trombonist, Jonathan Waxman studied the culinary arts in Paris before moving back to the States and developing his own version of California cuisine. Today, he’s the chef/owner of three restaurants: Barbuto in Manhattan’s West Village, the now-iconic Jams at 1 Hotel Central Park and Baffi in Atlanta. A James Beard Award-winning chef, Waxman has appeared on Top Chef Masters, Top Chef, Recipe for Deception and MasterChef and has authored three cookbooks: The Barbuto Cookbook, A Great American Cook and Italian, My Way.

Q: What inspired you to pursue culinary arts?

I was working as a Ferrari salesman and the wife of the owner convinced me to take a cooking class. The rest is history. Quite a journey!

Q: You've been credited with being a pioneer of California cuisine. How would you describe it?

It’s truly a state of mind—no set rules, just a passion for simple dishes cooked with integrity, plus ingredients that follow the seasons. The light and the energy of California informs the food, and the topography dictates the seasons. From a culinary point of view, references to French, Italian, Japanese, Mexican and Chinese foods all help to create a jumbled, happy California mess in a wonderful, sunny fashion.

Q: How does your take on California cuisine differ from other chefs who may cook it?

I love simplicity and rusticity, so I try to synthesize my dishes so that there are no extraneous notes. And I try to make a certain harmony with the best and freshest ingredients. You can tell that my time as a trombonist has carried through.

Q: What are some foods or ingredients that anyone cooking California cuisine should have in their kitchen?

Sea salt, good butter, amazing olive oil, great spices, fresh herbs, anchovy, garlic and great onions. You can make a lot with these simple ingredients.

Q: What was the inspiration for your Pork Chops & Mostarda recipe?

Mostarda is a wonderful condiment that’s both tangy and spicy. It marries well with all meats, more specifically with pork. Pork chops need a little boost, and the mostarda is truly a fantastic addition to make the dish pop.

Q: How do you celebrate the holidays with your family? Do you have any special holiday meals or traditions?

We love Thanksgiving. I make a pheasant, capon and duck ballotine, stuffed with chorizo. I love all root vegetables and I adore sweet potatoes, broccoli and potatoes four ways.

Q: What’s your fondest holiday memory?

We spend every Christmas Day with our downstairs neighbors in our apartment building in New York. It’s so low key and special—it makes the day glow.

Q: Why does this moment resonate with you?

I thank my stars for blessing me with a wonderful family. They illuminate my life.

Q: Do you have a favorite Christmas gift you've received?

My wife always buys me cashmere sweaters, and I’m wearing one as I type!

Q: Do you have any kitchen hacks or special techniques you can share with us?

To make a special pasta, gently brown rigatoni in butter and olive oil. When the pasta is golden all over, add cold water. The water will quickly come to boil, and the pasta will retain a special “toasty” quality. Another fun technique: When making pesto, if you use an immersion blender, add a tablespoon of crushed ice. The pesto will remain bright green for days.